Redevelopment work of Castries Market is under way. With the Saint Lucian government having set aside $32 million in this year’s budget, the project has substantial financial firepower behind it. However, as the experience of other market redevelopments alongside the success of ongoing sites around the world shows, it takes more than money and modern amenities to make a market a success.
For Saint Lucia and its capital, day one of the new market’s operation is rightfully one to look forward to, but between now and then, what do the Castries business community and Saint Lucians in general need to know about the fates and fortunes of other great markets around the world?
Preparing for Trade
The upgraded Castries Market will see major redevelopment across the board, catering to new and existing needs. A major change is simple structurally, but one that will be treasured by vendors; no longer will overhead covers or umbrellas be required as the market space will be protected from the elements.
The market will also deliver new spaces for air-conditioned restaurants, a food court, duty-free shopping boutiques, a viewing tower and an entertainment area. This is in complement to the craft market and meat and fish depots which make up the traditional heart and soul of the space.
This building is not simply about a new place or trade, or even community use, but instead ties into a broader ambition of Castries City Council and the wider community. As Castries Mayor Peterson Francis said, “A new level of pride needs to be portrayed as the Castries Market Redevelopment Project, which is part of Castries Vision 2030, aims to positively transform the image and business of vending in the city.”
A Rebrand in the Land of the Rising Sun
The world’s great markets have had an ability to transcend their key attractions. They’ve even transcended the cities in which they are located, attracting domestic and international visitors alike and promising to provide an experience that is a spectacle and a cultural immersion. This ethos is how the Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, Japan transformed from the first port of call for fresh seafood in the nation’s capital into a tourist destination in its own right.
So popular has the market become that in recent years authorities have had to close off access to the ‘inner market’ where much of the early morning fish buying and selling is done, while also seeking to expand tourism attractions within the outer market to retain tourism numbers and entice new visitors.
Beyond the aforementioned changes, there has been a downside. A relocation of some attractions and a rebrand of Tokyo’s Toyosu Wholesale Market have seen tourism numbers dwindle in 2019. A key attraction is the daily tuna auction where tourists can watch Japanese fisheries sell premium tuna for millions of dollars per fish. It was once so popular that long queues were a constant. But a complicated online booking system was introduced that requires people to book in advance, and it has deterred some visitors. This may seem an incidental change but it has delivered a knock-on effect (granted, in complement to other changes across the market). The space that 10 years ago the Japan Times called ‘too popular to function’ is now a shell of its past. This is chiefly attributed to the new market being seen as a sterile and soul-less design, without the ambiance and charm of its predecessor.
The recent experience of the Tsukiji-Toyosu Wholesale Market is a cautionary tale for Castries. Yes, Saint Lucia’s capital and Japan’s may have vastly different populations, but any great metropolitan market can suffer a decline if upgrades and additions come at the expense of the original attractions and vibe that drew so many patrons in the first place.
Jemaa el-Fnaa
This marketplace in Marrakesh, Morocco is one of the world’s great examples of a market serving as versatile public space. As the day begins, the square in the city’s historic Medina Quarter is crowded with merchants selling fresh juice, leather goods, clothing and tourist souvenirs. As the day progresses from morning to afternoon, numerous entertainers begin to make their way into the square. Once the sun begins to set, storytellers, musicians, magicians and other performing artists, who form part of the market’s iconic UNESCO-recognised cultural community, will be hard at work. As they perform, the day traders head home, and the market becomes one of the world’s most amazing outdoor eateries, as hot food stalls fire up frying pans and hot plates, selling fried chicken, calamari and kebabs abundant with signature Moroccan spices.
The many different attractions, employees and patrons that come and go at various hours mean that Jemaa el-Fnaa is a market that constantly changes throughout the day. As a result, the infrastructure of the market is very simple, relying upon the sense of place and ambiance that all the vibrant sights, sounds and smells create to draw and retain a crowd each day.
Guadeloupe
Guadeloupe has grown a strong tourism identity within the region and beyond based on its markets, with multiple sites serving as attractions that complement one another. Sainte-Anne Market is a culinary epicentre with wonderful rum; Pointe-a-Pitre Market is renowned for its spices and shell fish, and Le Gosier Night Market is a haven for crafts and entertainment. Each is fantastic to experience as a standalone, and all sublime when visited back-to-back.
For Saint Lucia the focus right now is on the redevelopment works and the reopening of Castries Market. The experience of Guadeloupe shows that, when done properly, the existence and encouragement of additional markets is not a threat to a city’s mainstay but, over time, can become an asset.
Going to Market
The upgrade of Castries Market’s infrastructure is one that will be outstanding. It is also a project that, in the minds of many, is long overdue. There’s every reason to be optimistic about the future operations of the market but, as the experiences of the aforementioned markets show, the soul of the old market must accompany the upgrades, alongside a readiness to foster and support growth of traders around the community as a whole.
A new identity must also be established with the expanded footprint the market will occupy. Fortunately in this regard the market is one of many projects in Castries earmarked by the government for upgrade and beautification. This should ensure that, over time, the market’s lure will grow as other new attractions arise around it.
