A recent push to develop the Caribbean’s creative industries has seen musicians, artists and film-makers become the face of economic diversification in the region. But there’s one important creative sub-sector that risks being sidelined in the drive to embrace the arts – fashion. Caribbean designers have long struggled to get their creations in the public eye, and on the shelves. Lack of access to capital, insufficient manufacturing, the inability to scale up and meagre institutional support have all dampened growth in the sector. While some designers have reached an international audience through high-profile events such as Dominicana Moda, many more are still struggling to earn a living, particularly in the OECS.
Untapped potential
“People are trying to revive the industry but the support is not where it should be. That has always been the problem,” says Mae Wayne, publisher of SHE magazine and co-producer of Saint Lucian fashion show Hot Couture. “As a whole, the fashion industry is not a thriving industry. However, there is great potential for it to reposition itself in the Caribbean if it is taken seriously.”
Colourful Caribbean designs have been showing up on runways all over the world, driven by an engaged diaspora and proving that there is an international appetite for the region’s eclectic style. A style that, according to Wayne, is complex, unique and very aware of its roots. “Caribbean fashion is hard to pin down. It goes back to our lifestyle and our culture. We have some unique styles because of what the French and the British brought in, and our Creole heritage. It is a mish-mash. People are now more interested in being authentic and very proud of their culture and their heritage.”
The one-of-a-kind quality of Caribbean clothing aligns neatly with rising consumer demand for more ethical items – garments that aren’t mass-produced in sweatshops but, rather, sustainably made in such a way that benefits communities. Nothing has more heavily impacted the retail world in recent years than this brand of conscious consumerism, and whether it’s a women’s collective in Belize making jewellery from the invasive lionfish species or purses made from recycled paper in St Kitts and Nevis, the Caribbean is perfectly positioned to take advantage of this trend.
“There is scope in sustainability, and all those buzzwords,” says Wayne. “That is a good fit for what the Caribbean has to offer; we just have to embrace it.”
Economic boost
Embracing and developing the region’s fashion industry has far-reaching benefits beyond showcasing Caribbean talent. The diverse, multi-faceted sector – which includes designers, models, make-up artists, event co-ordinators, marketing staff, craftworkers and manufacturers – can create employment on a large scale, something that is pertinent to Saint Lucia as the country struggles to address its high youth unemployment numbers.
Aside from the obvious appeal of greater job opportunities, a thriving fashion industry allows island nations to diversify their exports and maximise links with other sectors. Encouraging visitors to buy wearable souvenirs enhances tourism; supporting homegrown clothing firms gives a boost to domestic manufacturing; hosting fashion shows spreads the wealth to others in the arts community. The direct and indirect benefits are numerous and invaluable.
They are also currently unquantifiable. Specific data on the size of the regional industry is virtually non-existent as stakeholders have not yet fully mapped the sector, or its potential. In 2012 Kingsley Cooper, head of modelling agency Pulse and Chairman of the Caribbean Fashion Industry Association, estimated that Caribbean fashion contributes around J$10 billion a year to the regional economy.
Much of this investment originates in Jamaica, home to Caribbean Fashion Week, which has fostered an established fashion scene heavily influenced by Jamaican music and culture. Wayne says Jamaican fashion is a grassroots business that has grabbed international attention, but believes that Trinidad is where the real innovation is happening, supported by a government which appreciates the value of the industry. She also credits the Dominican Republic, which recently hosted the annual fashion event Dominicana Moda, as building a viable industry.
Socrates Mckinney is the Founder and Artistic Director of Dominicana Moda, an event coming up to its 15th year and, without doubt, the most successful show in the region, He attributes the success of the show to its high standards which he lists as:
1. Set on international standards (e.g. cast, staging, collections);
2. Quality of designers takes precedence over any financial considerations;
3. Official support from the City Mayor, the Tourism Board, and Trade and Commerce;
4. Organised as Country-brand and City-brand;
5. Run as a Major Circuit with new shows every 2 hours;
6. General concept based on 4 axes: Fashion, Entertainment, Education and Business.
The quality and the production of the event, added to the high level of designers, have made this fashion week the most sought-after to attend. Additionally, the support of Caribbean Export has allowed Dominicana Moda to showcase the best in Caribbean fashion, making it a gateway to Latin and Caribbean markets.
Wayne acknowledges that fashion shows play a key role in developing the industry but would like to see these events handled with more gravitas, saying: “We think of it as a show, as entertainment, but the designer is there to sell. There is nothing wrong with having a party but you can lose track of what the industry is trying to do. I would like to see more focus on the product. It has to be done in a way that understands it is an industry, not just an event for people to look good and have a party.”
Wayne, who is set to co-produce a Hot Couture benefit on December 7, says part of the problem is a fixation on the glamour of the sector rather than the nuts and bolts of a designer’s craft. “My pet peeve is that there is no appreciation for the industry. Fashion does not get enough attention, it is neglected and misunderstood. It is seen as frivolous [but] it is a craft and it takes time and hard work. Fashion can bring in a lot of investment if we can harness it and take
it seriously.”
Dominicana Moda is heavily supported by development agency Caribbean Export, one of the groups working to highlight fashion’s economic potential. Advocating for designers and models, Caribbean Export has hosted seminars and workshops, as well as facilitating industry events and networking. Most recently, the group held its second fashion accelerator workshop which offered 16 budding designers from around the Caribbean a two-week training course focused on brand development and preparing products for export.
This kind of ‘hands-on’ training is important, says Wayne who would like to see more of a culture of mentoring and apprenticeship. She says there are many talented professionals in the sector whose expertise and experience would greatly benefit the next generation and adds: “Caribbean designers work in very hard circumstances and seeing all the hard work they put into it gave me a passion for it that has never left me. Everything made by Caribbean designers is made with love.”
